Real Aussie Reptiles Blog

2025 Reptile Expos - Sunshine Coast and Brisbane

Wed, 09 Apr 2025 02:14:22 GMT

We'll be back for two outstanding reptile events in 2025 - this year at the Sunny Coast on the 12-13 April 2025 and Brisbane 26-27 April 2025.

So if you'd like to purchase our finger grips , enclosure plates or exclusive merch - see us there!

Special Expo only prices across our range too!

More Info on all events:

Join us at the Sunshine Coast Convention Centre on April 12th & 13th for an amazing showcase of scaly and aquatic wonders!

Whether you're a dedicated keeper, curious newcomer, or looking for a fascinating family day out, this expo is packed with incredible sights and knowledgeable people.

Discover:

-Amazing reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates.
-Stunning aquarium displays and aquatic life.
-Everything you need: Enclosures, food, equipment & accessories.
-Expert advice from passionate breeders and suppliers.

Activities:

-FREE Face Painting All day!
-FREE Reptile Demonstration Shows at 11:30am and 1:30pm each day by the amazing guys at Reptile Relocation And Awareness - Jurassic Party!!!

We have an incredible lineup ready to chat and showcase their products & animals. Check them out:

Event Details:

When: Saturday, April 12th & Sunday, April 13th, 2025

VIP Hour: 9:00 AM - 10:00 AM (Both Days)
General Entry: 10:00 AM - 3:00 PM (Both Days)

Minyama & Wandiny Rooms, Sunshine Coast Convention Centre (270 Ocean Dr, Twin Waters QLD 4564)

The Brisbane Reptile Expo 2025 will be held at the Northside Indoor Sports Centre (20 Cambewarra St, Zillmere QLD 4034) on April 26-27, 2025.

Join us for the Brisbane Reptile Expo 2025, a premier event celebrating the fascinating world of reptiles! This family-friendly expo will be held on 26-27th of April at Northside Indoor Sports Centre, bringing together enthusiasts, experts, and vendors from across the region. Whether you're a seasoned herpetologist or simply curious about these incredible creatures, there's something for everyone.

Highlights of the Expo:

Live Demonstrations: Witness live demonstrations showcasing different reptile species, handling techniques, and interactive sessions where you can get up close and personal with some of the most amazing reptiles.
Vendor Booths: Explore a wide range of vendor booths offering reptiles for sale, supplies, habitats, and unique reptile-themed merchandise. Find everything you need to care for your scaly friends or add to your collection.
Photo Opportunities: Capture memorable moments with our special reptile photo ops. Take a picture with some of the most unique reptiles under the guidance of experienced handlers.
Networking Opportunities: Meet and connect with fellow reptile enthusiasts, breeders, and experts. Share experiences, tips, and knowledge in a vibrant community setting.

2024 Brisbane Reptile Expo

Sun, 04 Feb 2024 06:56:40 GMT

After a successful 2023 event, Brisbane Reptile Society and Shikito's Critters are back in 2024 at a bigger and better venue. An event not to be missed for QLD reptile lovers!

Get ready for an epic gathering of reptile enthusiasts at the Brisbane Reptile Expo 2024 , where you can explore a world of scaly wonders!

Discover a wide variety of reptiles from around Australia, including snakes, lizards, turtles, and more.

Whether you're a seasoned reptile keeper or just curious about these incredible creatures, there's something for everyone at the Brisbane Reptile Expo. Learn from expert speakers who will share their knowledge and insights into reptile care, conservation, and the importance of these unique animals in our ecosystem.

Get up close and personal with some of the most beautiful and Interesting reptiles you've ever seen. Don't miss this opportunity to meet fellow reptile enthusiasts, browse through vendor stalls offering a wide range of reptile-related products, and maybe even find your next scaly friend to bring home.

Join us at the Brisbane Reptile Expo 2024 for a weekend of reptile wonder and excitement.

Mark your calendars and get ready to embark on a reptile adventure like no other!

Event details:

The Brisbane Reptile Expo 2024 is an exciting event for all reptile enthusiasts and nature lovers. Join us for a day filled with fascinating reptiles, Demonstration shows and interactive exhibits.

Date: Saturday March 30th 2024 and Sunday March 31st 2024

Time:

VIP/Quiet Time: 9-10am (Saturday and Sunday)
General Public: 10am to 6pm (Saturday and Sunday)

*Quiet time is for Disabled and/or Special Needs people.

Ticket Prices:

VIP: $75 Only 200 available on Saturday!
Adults: $25 (16+)
Kids: $5 (10-15)
Family: $40 (2 Adults and 2 Children)
Under 10s FREE!

Location:

Northside Indoor Sports Centre

20 Cambewarra St, Zillmere QLD 4034

Free Parking!
Public Transport right behind the venue!

Links:

Finger Grip Spring Sale - 20% off Site-wide

Wed, 06 Sep 2023 07:10:53 GMT

I love spring and summer for the reptiles, but otherwise, I'm not a fan of the heat!

So its time to shed some weight!

Take 20% off all silver finger grips, either through our website or shoot me a PM through our FB page to pay via Direct Deposit or to arrange a custom order at these great prices.

We all have better things to do- we don't wanna be cleaning glass constantly!

Finger grips will help!

These nifty adhesive bits of acrylic make it easier AND cleaner to open enclosure doors!

They are useful for both sliding and outward opening enclosures, giving your fingers a stylised place to grip!

Brisbane Reptile Expo This Weekend

Sun, 26 Mar 2023 09:13:42 GMT

Real Aussie Reptiles are delighted to be part of the first Brisbane Reptile Expo since the pandemic this coming 1st and 2nd April 2023.

An event for all Reptile lovers in Brisbane - this weekend is not to be missed!

I will be there along with 30 other breeders and reptile companies. On display will be our finger grip range and a few other goodies and maybe a few of my favourite snakes.

The event is by Shikito's Critters and is being held at:

Morayfield Community Hall, 298 Morayfield Rd, Morayfield QLD 4506, Australia
Saturday 1st April to Sunday 2nd April
Open 10am to 3pm both Saturday and Sunday.

Along with the other exhibitors, there will be live reptiles for sale, reptile shows, raffles, and plenty more. *Must have a reptile license to purchase a Reptile*

Online tickets available here:
https://www.eventbrite.com.au/e/480803565407

A sneak peak into the exhibitors and where you can find us on the day is in the map below:

Children's Pythons - FAQs

Tue, 31 Jan 2023 08:05:01 GMT

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Children's Pythons, ( Antaresia childreni) , a stunning nocturnal python from the northern half of Australia.

If you have any general questions that haven't been answered, or would like to hear about a particular topic, contact me and I'll do my best to answer any of your burning reptile questions.

Now, onto the Children's Python FAQ - and a gallery of some shots taken of my female patternless T+ albino below.

Photos taken recently of my f emale patternless T+ albino Children's Python (click on each to view full image):

Best Substrate for Pythons - What Substrate Should You Use?

Fri, 06 Jan 2023 09:15:00 GMT

Which substrate to use is often a personal opinion thing.

Something I will often say is, ask 10 different people and get 10 different answers! But here, I will explain a few important considerations to help you decide the best substrate for your pythons.

1. Best substrate for hatchlings

Personally, for hatchlings, especially as a new keeper to the hobby, is just a good quality simple paper towel.

This is because it is safer (they can’t accidently eat it as it won’t stick to their food), it is easier to keep very clean and hygienic, it is economical to use, hatchlings like to hide under it to feel secure.

It is also easy to monitor their defecation and urate production, so you can identify early if there is a problem.

2. Best substrate for adult snakes

For adult snakes, avoid super fine substrates like sand, as they can irritate between their scales, as well as get stuck in their nostrils and around their eyes.

Some snakes prefer quite a thick layer of substrate as they like to burrow and tunnel beneath it, especially snakes like the Black Headed Python.

2. Best brands of substrate

The two main brands of substrate I’ve tried for my adult snakes are Kritter’s crumble (now Critter's Comfort), which is a coconut fibre based one, and Chipsi, which is a very fine wood shaving type material.

Quite a few people also recommend Aspen, which I imagine to be very similar.

3. Critter's Comfort Vs Chipsi - pros and cons

Chipsi

My personal experience with Chipsi was that it is economical, though because it was so fine it would easily stick to their prey (I worry about obstructions or constipation if they ingest too much over time) and it tracks everywhere - in their water bowl, in the enclosure glass tracks, all over the floor, on the bottom of their water fall (like a booby-trap when I take it out of the enclosure to clean!).

But I know other big keepers and breeders swear by it!

Critter's Comfort (Kritter's Crumble)

Kritter’s crumble is the substrate I have now reverted back to, and the only real downside of it for me is it is more expensive to purchase than the others, though I do find it expands when out of the bag to take up more space.

I’ve found it to be good for odour control, easy to spot clean, easier to empty out of the enclosure to clean, is less likely to be ingested with their prey, and doesn’t track as the pieces are bigger.

Having said this, the snakes still thoroughly enjoy burrowing through and underneath it.

S UMMARY

Ultimately you are looking for a clean, ‘soft,’ hygienic, absorbant material, but keep in mind you will still need to periodically do a 100% clean out to minimise the risk of things like scale rot and respiratory tract infections.

How do I know if my snake is happy? Your questions answered

Thu, 29 Dec 2022 08:19:06 GMT

In today's post, I answer some of the more common questions I get asked about snakes in general, including, how to know if your snake is happy.

If you are new to the snake-keeping hobby, a casual enthusiast or perhaps want to freshen up your serpentine knowledge, you will enjoy this post of some frequently asked questions.

Do snakes know their name, are snakes loyal, can they bond with a human, and - do they fart?!

All is revealed below...

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2023 Reptile Wall Calendars Now Available

Wed, 07 Dec 2022 05:33:12 GMT

Looking for a Christmas stocking filler for the reptile enthusiast in your life? Then our 2023 reptile wall calendar is the perfect present!

Our 2023 wall calendar features DSLR photography taken by me (Dr Laura Coughran) during the year. Included are some of my personal favourite shots, and the more popular images shared on our Facebook page this year.

We've printed a small run which is now available on our online shop .

Features of this wall calendar:

All original images, mostly untouched/edited - reptiles in their raw beauty!
Designed by us and proudly printed in Brisbane, Australia by Rogue Print and Mail on FSC certified matt stock
12 month calendar (Jan-Dec 2023)
One A4 page per image and monthly calendar (A3 folded to A4)
Single hole punch, ready to affix to your office wall, workplace, home, garage, reptile room etc
Includes 1 page 2024 calendar
National public holidays included
Posted within 1-2 business days. Shipping is $12 flat rate Australia wide.

If you would like to order a calendar from the first press, please click to view our 2023 wall calendar in our shop. As always, if you want to order multiple copies, just email me and I'll sort this out for you.

Thank you to those who have already ordered so far - your support is so appreciated and unexpected! I will be sure to keep up the photography as it's a hobby I'm excited to get back into, and the subject matter helps of course.

If you have any questions or want to get in touch, email us at: laura@realaussiereptiles.com.au

Support your local reptile store - stockists now available

Mon, 21 Nov 2022 05:11:38 GMT

We're delighted to announce three fantastic local stores are now stocking our finger grips for sale.

We have a new page on our site (under Shop-Stockists) which lists our current stockists .

At the moment we have two fantastic stores on the north and south side of Brisbane, and one in North-West Sydney. We will keep this page updated as new stores across the country come onboard.

If you live in these areas and want to check out the finger grips for yourself, I encourage you to visit the impressive range of supplies each stocks - and consider supporting them with purchasing the product directly at their store.

I would personally like to thank the current stores for believing in the product and what we are trying to achieve overall at Real Aussie Reptiles. I've had some very meaningful discussions with all, and where I can, I have personally visited each (and may or may not have purchased some new goodies while there...).

If you or your local reptile supplier is interested in stocking our finger grips, please email me at: laura@realaussiereptiles.com.au

In other good news, we've also created a one page catalogue of the current designs available on our shop .

This is available to download below:

Download catalogue

Our current range of designs, colours and pricing.

Buy Local

Buy from your local reptile supply store.

Opinion Piece: The unethical trend of reptile rack systems

Tue, 25 Oct 2022 08:02:26 GMT

Disclaimer: I'm well aware that a vast majority of breeders or keepers with large collections will complain about this post/my opinion. And it's not the first time I have had potentially contentious views - read my article on a summary of my issues with the python breeding industry in this post . But, I'm curious... for those of you who share my thoughts - please post below (or on my Facebook page) and let me know what you think. We need to challenge the age old processes, and I'd love to find more like-minded people.

What is most important to people?

Ethics, and the humane treatment of animals?

In these adult tub systems, the snakes:

rarely have adequate space to stretch out,
rarely have a hide to feel secure and curl up under.
rarely have anything to climb on (arboreal, remember!!)
rarely have exposure to natural lighting
rarely have any substrate or form of enrichment,
are lucky if they even have a piece of butchers paper that may cover part of their tub, and,
they frequently have poor ventilation.

A trend I have also noticed is that sometimes people will post their proud 'achievements' with these rack systems on social media.

Others will comment on the poor quality of life of the animals in those environments, and... *poof* - instead of addressing the concerns, the post or the comments are deleted .

I could easily share photos that these breeders seem to confidently flaunt, but how is that going to bring about change? Besides. I'm sure we've all seen them, and that you know what I'm talking about, if you follow them online.

And - I will be honest.

Yes, I keep hatchlings and juveniles in tub systems. So am I a hypocrite? Perhaps.

But - I'm totally upfront about it, am hiding nothing, and happy to share the reasoning why.

Why use tub systems for hatchlings?

Unlike most adult snakes, hatchlings and juveniles view themselves as prey.

They often will refuse to eat, and will hide away if they feel overly exposed. In addition, it is easier to monitor toileting, eating and shedding of the much more fragile hatchlings, when they are housed in a rack system.

My aim will be to get hatchies ready and feeding reliably so they can go to their new homes, where they can then experience further enrichment .

For my 'keepers,' as soon as they are big enough (aka can't escape or be injured), they move to a bigger tub, so they can still fully stretch out.

At all times they have:

a multi-layered hide,
clean water bowl,
juvies get a cocopeat based substrate that they can actually explore and burrow in, and
I use things like bird ladders for arboreal pythons to climb on, in contrast to convenient, cheap, thin but uncomfortable pieces of garden mesh.

Having these ethics means a few things:

I can't keep or produce the sheer numbers of reptiles that many bigger breeders can, and
I can't produce offpsring and sell them as cheaply as the bigger breeders.

But what CAN I offer?

Peace of mind that my offspring will come from an ethical environment,
the animals quality of life and health is important, and,
they aren't simply locked away in a drawer until their presence is convenient again, to pump out further offspring.

So...what's more important to you?

Video - How I handle a snake that is defensive or bitey

Sun, 09 Oct 2022 09:03:07 GMT

Today is a quick video on how I can sometimes handle defensive or potentially bitey snakes, featuring my flightiest Rough Scale Python, Thorne.

For a in-depth article on using fear-free handling and positive interactions, please read my earlier article on how to ' stop my snake biting' .

Full Video Transcript:

00:00:00:1 8 - 00:00:01:03

Hi, guys.

00:00:01:03 - 00:00:03:15

It's Laura from real aussie reptiles here.

00:00:03:15 - 00:00:07:16

Just thought I'd make a quick video

on how I can sometimes handle

00:00:07:23 - 00:00:10:24

some defensive

or potentially bitey snakes.

00:00:11:21 - 00:00:17:17

This is Thorne, she is in another article

I worte on handling biting snakes.

00:00:18:06 - 00:00:22:10

She used to be really, really flighty

and bitey, but she settled down a lot now.

00:00:22:10 - 00:00:24:29

But she's

still one of my flightier snakes.

00:00:24:29 - 00:00:27:02

So what I sometimes use is just

00:00:27:02 - 00:00:29:28

a simple and light, paper towel

00:00:29:28 - 00:00:33:26

that you can use kind of like a barrier

between the snake's head and your hand.

00:00:34:27 - 00:00:38:25

So - one, if they strike,

they're less likely to hit you, and two -

00:00:38:28 - 00:00:42:28

they don't create a stressful

identification between your hand

00:00:42:28 - 00:00:44:18

coming in and getting picked

up and that sort of thing.

00:00:45:21 - 00:00:46:20

So what I

00:00:46:20 - 00:00:50:14

often do (let’s see if we get bitten!).

00:00:50:14 - 00:00:53:19

You can see Thorne just sitting in there,

00:00:54:02 - 00:00:56:12

and she instantly pulles back

a little bit, so she's not sure.

00:00:56:28 - 00:01:00:23

So what I can sometimes do, is gently

put the paper towel over,

00:01:01:29 - 00:01:03:28

pick them up from behind,

00:01:04:03 - 00:01:07:24

supporting their body, and they generally

00:01:09:00 - 00:01:11:24

will then settle down

a little bit once in your hand.

00:01:11:24 - 00:01:14:21

So just keep supporting them.

00:01:14:21 - 00:01:18:28

Try to avoid going near the head, just

sort of let them glide through your hands

00:01:19:21 - 00:01:22:27

and you can put our hand over tub or bag

or something if you needed to clean,

00:01:24:03 - 00:01:26:14

and move around a lot more calmly.

New Lizard and Snake Designs Available

Mon, 03 Oct 2022 08:00:40 GMT

Now available in our shop: six Lizard and Snake Finger Grip designs.

Our new designs are for the native Australian lizard keepers out there!

A few of these are by customer request. You can get in touch with me on the contact page if there is a specific native aussie reptile you are interested in being designed.

Plus! By popular request, we have extended our colour range, with gold and clear acrylic now available.

For now, here are the brand new designs:

New Finger Grip Designs Available

Tue, 13 Sep 2022 08:02:41 GMT

Now available in our shop: three new Lizard Finger Grip designs.

Our new designs are for the native Australian lizard keepers out there!

A few of these are by customer request. You can get in touch with me on the contact page if there is a specific native aussie reptile you are interested in being designed.

For now, here are the brand new designs:

What enclosure should I get for my snake?

Fri, 02 Sep 2022 03:59:44 GMT

What enclosure to get your snake is a question often asked by new python keepers - and, in short - there isn’t one single answer to it. In Australia, we are able to keep a variety of types of python which occur naturally in the wild, in a wide assortment of habitat types.

This means they have adapted to their environments, and thus, we should try to somewhat mimic their environment in captivity (note: I know full well we can never give them the space and enrichment that they would encounter in the wild, within captivity).

The other thing that should influence your decision is the size of the snake you’re getting .

If they’re a hatchling , they are typically viewed as prey to other animals in the wild and often don’t like large wide spaces . Therefore, we typically recommend a temporary smaller enclosure until they grow , such as a 5-7L tub for Antaresia or 7-10L or so tubs for Morelia and Aspidites .

Below, I will go into some reasoning and my own personal recommendations for housing adult snakes, keeping in mind that for adults, bigger is generally better!

Please note, I won’t go into detail regarding the Liasis genus, as I don’t personally have experience with keeping them.

>Enclosure size for adult snakes

Personally, I am not a fan of housing adult snakes in tubs.

I’d prefer to give them more enrichment in a larger enclosure.

These forms of enrichment include being able to see out of the enclosure, perches and other furnishings. This allows me to vary things in their enclosure to get different scents etc.

>Enclosure material

Some other recommendations for choosing an enclosure are to try and stick to timber (/melamine) enclosures as they retain heat better, avoid anything sticky like tape within the enclosure as it can cause serious injuries, and avoid enclosures with wire , as they can injure themselves rubbing against it repeatedly.

>Enclosure recommendations for Antaresia

These pythons stay quite small compared to other Australian species, and generally terrestrial in nature.

Therefore, they will utilise their available space better if the enclosure is long, rather than high . This doesn’t mean Antaresia won’t use height at all – they will climb – but generally spend the majority of their time on ‘ground level.’

Their size varies from the Pygmy pythons at about 60cm in length, up to 120cm for mature Spotted pythons, though on average Antaresia are about 90cm in length across the board.

Because of this, I prefer 90cm long enclosures, preferably 60cm deep and 60cm high to allow them ample room to move around and stretch.

>Enclosure recommendations for Aspidites

Like Antaresia , Aspidites sp. are also predominantly terrestrial, and though they will climb, tend to be a little… how shall we say it… uncoordinated, in their attempts.

Depending on the individual, I find that for climbing, they are better with rocky type outcrops and broad branches or timber , rather than being able to wrap themselves around a narrow perch like a carpet python can.

Keeping in mind the size of these guys, they would benefit best as fully grown adults in larger enclosures, for example 180cm long x 60cm high x 60cm deep .

>Enclosure recommendations for Morelia

Finally, we have the more complex and widespread genus, Morelia .

This genus varies in size from the smaller jungle carpet pythons for example, right up to the largest which is the scrub python, which I have not personally kept in captivity.

These pythons as arboreal, which means they spend most of their time up in the trees , rather than as much time on the ground, and in the case of Green Tree Pythons, they very rarely go to the ground at all!

Generally, Morelia can be kept in 120cm long x 60cm deep x 90cm high enclosures, though larger varieties would benefit from having it 180cm in length.

Keep your snake enclosure clean and easy to open with our range of Aussie made Finger Grips!

How do I stop my snake from biting

Tue, 30 Aug 2022 05:06:05 GMT

One of the most common questions that seem to pop up on a lot of online forums that I follow, and to be honest, I rarely agree with the majority of the answers, is this: How to stop my snake biting.

This isn’t because I want to stir the pot and cause an argument, but rather, to challenge people’s way of thinking about how best to manage a biting snake, in the best interests of the snake!

I’d rather promote fear free handling of my pets , rather than forcing them to endure it simply for my own sake.

And I will be honest, some snakes just really do not want to be handled - and if that is the case, I prefer to let them do their own thing!

There has most certainly been a movement towards fear free handling and training of other species, including other reptiles like monitors.

I see people talk about ‘gaining their trust’ and building positive interactions all the time - yet why does this vary so significantly when compared to pythons?

If you’re interested in hearing more of my thoughts, I hope you read below...

1. Determine the response type

One of the first things to think about when you have an ‘aggressive’ or ‘bitey’ snake, is to determine whether it is a defensive fear based response , or whether it is a hunger/feeding response .

When the snake bites, does it bite and immediately try to pull away and either try to hide, or resume a defensive position?

Or does the snake bite and coil around you as if you were a prey item?

If it is the latter, your snake has a strong feeding response, and it’d be worthwhile re-assessing your feeding frequency, and the size of the prey you’re offering- are they getting enough food?

2. Feeding response - how to manage behaviour

Some individual snakes naturally have very strong feeding responses and will often strike and coil as if looking for another feed, even if they’ve literally just been fed!

Some people have a theory here, that by feeding the snake in a separate tub or enclosure, that they’ll then supposedly learn that they are eating only when in that tub, and are less likely to bite when being handled.

To me, this theory is significantly flawed .

If you think about it, if you take your python out of their enclosure, they would then be wondering whether they’re going to the feeding tub vs being handled, so may actually be more food-responsive and ‘bitey’ in anticipation of a possible meal.

In contrast, if you feed them in their own enclosure, as I do, they know if they’re getting fed because as soon as the enclosure opens, food is offered.

If it isn’t feed time, I reach in with a hook or something simple like a piece of paper towel to gently touch them, before lifting them out.

This way, they know once they’ve been hooked out or picked up, they’re being handled and won’t be offered food.

To me, this logically makes more sense, is more practical, and less stressful to the snake .

With some snakes, especially young ones in new environments, the physical act of putting them into a tub to feed them will stress them out and make them less likely to feed in the first place, or may even cause them to regurgitate their meal.

3. Fear Response - how to manage behaviour

If your snake is showing fearful behaviour , such as coiling, hissing, open mouth bluffing, striking and releasing/recoiling immediately , then my tactic changes significantly, and this is where I often disagree with some methods people promote on online forums such as facebook…

More often than not, when people ask about stopping their snake from biting, people firstly don’t generally even ask if it is a food response or defensive – this makes a huge difference in how to manage the issue!

Secondly, if someone says their snake is acting ‘aggressively’ (defensively- they are scared!) a common technique people recommend is essentially ‘flooding’ – repeatedly get the snake out of the enclosure despite its behaviour, no matter how many times you get bitten, and handle it as often as you can.

This to me sounds like a punishment, or bordering on… dare I say it… torture-like behaviour.

Imagine being locked in a room, and a giant hand periodically reaches in to forcefully grab you and move you around, naked and all exposed in the universe, with nothing to protect yourself, and no comprehension of what is going on?

Of course the snake is going to repeatedly hiss, coil defensively and strike , and may even be stressed enough to go off its food and stop displaying natural behaviours.

In my opinion, you need to do the total opposite of flooding.

Take a step back, reduce handling, ensure the animal feels secure:

cover the sides of the enclosure if need be.
re-assess the enclosure size and furnishings - is it too large or open and exposed for a small snake, understanding that they are all individuals and have different tolerances?
Ensure the snake is eating properly and well established before even attempting to force them to be handled.

Initially, with my fearful and defensive snakes, I would literally just offer food every 5-7 days for hatchlings/juveniles, and once they felt secure enough with their prey I’d pop them aside on a piece of paper towel while I turbo-cleaned their tub or enclosure, before putting them back in and leaving them be - I’ve found this to be the least stressful way of performing general cleaning and husbandry.

Eventually, and the time frame depends on the individual, they get to the stage where they expect anything going into the enclosure or tub to be food - great!
They feel comfortable, and have settled into a routine!
At this point, during my husbandry, I leave them out with their food slightly longer so they’re exposed to a few limited stimuli/more open environment whilst they already feel securely coiled around their prey and are pre-occupied.
Once they’ve settled into a regular feeding routine, are no longer hungry and fearful, I will start gently opening the enclosure and using a hook to gently touch down their side for example.
Based on their response, I’ll continue the limited touch with the hook (which appears to be less threatening and better tolerated than a chunky warm-blooded funny-smelling hand).
As they no longer really react to the hook, I will trial using the hook to gently lift them from their mid body and simply place them on my hand, nice and calmly, in a room with no other movement or ‘scary things’ going on.
I’ll let them gradually move across my hands, keeping my hands away from their heads, and ensuring their body is supported underneath at all times.
Note that I do find Aspidites (black headed pythons and woma pythons) and occasional Antaresia can be slightly trickier, as I have had some where they will get frightened and ‘launch’ themselves off your hand to try and strike or bluff your other hand. Ideally you want to avoid this situation by not rushing things too quickly to get to this point in the first place.
Over time, they become more desensitised to your handling, and with all of my guys, even those that come with a bad reputation for being bitey, have settled and are fine to handle once out of their enclosure.
Once they’re at this point, gradually increase the duration of handling, within their comfort level, and you’ll generally find they rapidly settle down, and you can start introducing other external stimuli.

EXAMPLE:

Female Rough Scale Python, Thorn.

I purchased Thorn as a hatchling from the 2021 season, and she was extremely, extremely defensive to the point she was too pre-occupied with trying to lunge at me, or anything, that she sensed even remotely move past her tub, that she wouldn’t eat.

Here is the fear-free process I use to build trust and stop defensive biting:

I kept slowly persisting- reduced traffic around her environment and reduced vibrations, and kept offering food.
Eventually she started taking it, and over time her feeding confidence grew.
When she had been at the stage of expecting food each time the tub was opened or when I was nearby, I started opening the tub for longer periods of time , often without having food - just so she could get used to my scent, the change in the air, the different environment.
Gradually I started using the hook to desensitise her to being touched down the side and from beneath , and then lifted her onto my hands for short periods of time.
She still has a great feeding response, but once she is out of the enclosure, she settles down.
She can sometimes still be a little defensive if something startles her, but I simply sit still, wait til she has sussed things out, then let her keep moving around or if she remains stressed, return her to her enclosure.

Sliding Glass Finger Grips Now Available

Mon, 15 Aug 2022 03:22:40 GMT

We're excited to launch our first reptile enclosure finger grips featuring a range of native Australian reptile designs.

Our custom designed sliding glass finger grips are the ideal solution to keeping reptile enclosures mark-free, clean and easy to open and close. Comes in a pack of 2 individual pieces - mirror imaged.

We've released the first 4 designs:

Antaresia Spotted Python finger grip ,
Plain Unpatterned Snake finger grip ,
Morelia Jungle Python finger grip and,
Aspidites Black Headed Python finger grip .

We've released the first 4 designs:

Antaresia Spotted Python finger grip ,
Plain Unpatterned Snake finger grip ,
Morelia Jungle Python finger grip and,
Aspidites Black Headed Python finger grip .

About our Finger Grips:

Hand-drawn and precision laser cut, our finger grips are 100% Australian designed, owned and produced.
Designed by a dedicated reptile keeper for reptile keepers.

Features:

A range of sizes
3mm thick quality two tone silver to black acrylic.
precision laser engraved.
comes complete with peel back adhesive for quick and easy installation.
pack of 2 (two) - mirror image.
F10 disinfectant safe.

Shipping information:

Orders packed and shipped within 2-3 business days.
In the case of sold out stock, please allow for up to 5 days for new production to commence.

Black Headed Pythons - FAQs

Tue, 02 Aug 2022 12:54:11 GMT

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Black Headed Pythons, a striking - and large - species of python found in the northern half of Australia.

If you have any general questions that haven't been answered, or would like to hear about a particular topic, contact me and I'll do my best to answer any of your burning reptile questions.

Now, onto the Black Headed Python FAQ - and a gallery of some shots taken of one of my male BHP, Onyx, recently.

Photos taken recently of my male Black Headed Python, Onyx (click on each to view full image):

Aspidites Species Care Sheet

Wed, 27 Jul 2022 07:25:52 GMT

Basic care and husbandry recommendations for keeping Aspidites species, with a free PDF download of the Aspidites Species Care Sheet.

The genus Aspidites includes the Black Headed Python from the top third of Australia, and the Woma python , which is predominantly found across the arid centre and southwest of Australia.

Aspidites in our planned pairings include:

Black Headed Python
Rockhampton Downs Woma Python

Depending on the locality of an individual, Woma pythons average out at about 1.5m in length, whilst Black Headed pythons are significantly larger and range from 1.5 to 2m in length. Both species are predominantly terrestrial, and typically live in dunefields and sandy plains, and usually prefer being able to burrow within their substrate.

1. Housing

Being predominantly terrestrial pythons, both black headed pythons and woma’s are more likely to utilise all of the available ground surface area within their environment, rather than up in tree’s like Morelia. Because of this, we recommend having a long enclosure, but still have enough vertical space with broad branches or rocky outcrops that they can climb up if they wish. Hatchlings, which are often prey to other larger predators, can be quite shy and timid especially if placed into a large enclosure.

Because of this, we recommend housing hatchlings in 10-15L size tubs to start with until they are well established and more confident feeders. Keep in mind that these pythons, and black headed pythons especially, start out as very large hatchlings compared to Antaresia for example, and generally grow quite quickly. This is important to know, because it means you will need to upgrade them to a larger enclosure much more quickly!

Enclosure furnishings should include one hide in the warm end and a water bowl in the cool end for hatchlings in tubs, to a hide at either end and a water bowl at the cool end, for sub-adults and adults in their adult enclosures. I strongly recommend you use a ceramic bowl or similar, to make it harder for them to tip over and spill throughout the enclosure. Occasionally they also like to submerge themselves in the water bowl, so often appreciate having a bowl large enough for them to fit into.

For the substrate for these species, they do enjoy burrowing so will benefit from having a substrate they can exhibit this normal behaviour in. Personally I prefer using coarse Kritter’s crumble, a coconut fibre based substrate, as I find it the easiest to use, easy to maintain, doesn’t tend to stick to the snakes food at dinner time, and they love to burrow beneath it. Having said this, for hatchlings in tubs, I prefer to use paper towel so I can monitor their toileting habits more closely.

2. Enclosure size

When choosing an enclosure size to keep Aspidites, three important considerations are the size of the snake, the fact that they are terrestrial in nature, and their large size. Keeping these in mind, I prefer to house hatchlings in 10-15L tubs, adult woma’s in a minimum of 120x60x60cm enclosures, and adult black headed pythons ideally in a minimum of a 180x60x60cm enclosure.

3. Heating

Being a terrestrial nocturnal species, womas and black headed pythons usually come out during the day and like to find a warm place to thermoregulate. Because the sun is already down, this heat is usually from things like rocks, or the road, which provides belly heat, rather than heat from above.

Because of this, I prefer to use heat cords or heat mats controlled with a thermostat to provide a hot spot of 32-35’C. I would recommend you avoid heat rocks though, as they have a history of causing thermal burns in reptiles. For lighting, it is not crucial to provide UVB or lighting within the enclosure, though LED or fluoro tubes may be used so you can see your pet more easily.

These should be hooked up to a timer, to allow 12 hours of light during the warm months and 10 hours during the cool months. Don’t forget to use a light cage, otherwise your python may accidently break the bulb, which can cause injuries.

4. Feeding

Because Aspidites are ‘reptile specialists’ in the wild, eating other reptiles, they can often be difficult to start as hatchlings on rats or mice, as they aren’t their normal type of prey. This is why it is important that you get a feeding log from your breeder, to ensure they are established feeders.

I have found some Aspidites will calmly come up at feeding time, ‘nose boop’ their prey, then just slowly open their mouth and start eating, whilst others will launch themselves at the food and form a tight coil around it. So their feeding style may vary- you’ll quickly learn what they prefer to do, and can act accordingly.

One thing I will mention here is that black headed pythons in particular are prone to becoming obese, so it is recommended that they not be ‘power fed’ and is best to let them mature at a slower rate. Personally I avoid feeding XL or jumbo rats as they are quite fatty, and would prefer to feed frozen-thawed rats or even chickens, depending on the individual snakes size.

Morelia Species Care Sheet

Thu, 14 Jul 2022 00:50:35 GMT

Basic care and husbandry recommendations for keeping Morelia species, with a free PDF download of the Morelia Species Care Sheet.

Australia is lucky to be home to the Morelia genus of snakes, which is quite a diverse group.

Morelia in our planned pairings include:

Jungle Carpet Python
Bredli Carpet Python
Rough Scale Python

Morelia range from the stunning but finicky Green Tree Python found in the forests of far north of Queensland, to the largest species of snake the Scrub Python!

The different species within this genus have a wide variety of types and colours, and are generally quite hardy, with the exception of Green Tree Pythons. Below I will give a fairly broad recommendation on keeping the majority of Morelia species, with the exception of the Green Tree Python, as I have never personally kept them, and they have much more specific requirements and can be ‘fragile’ to keep.

1. Housing

Though Morelia typically eat mammals as their main prey source (though having said this, they are opportunistic and will eat other reptiles and other things like eggs, given the opportunity!), if housed together they may display cannibalism. This can result in the death of both animals, so it is thoroughly recommended to house them separately.

For hatchlings, they are generally viewed as prey to other predators, and therefore spend most of their juvenile time hiding away, coming out just to feed. Because of this, hatchlings tend to thrive in smaller spaces, such as a 10L size tub, until older. If housed in a large enclosure without adequate hides and cover, they will often be very defensive and refuse to eat, though I will go into further detail on this later in this article.

The general recommendations for housing Morelia include ventilation, a water bowl, light source, hides, and a good quality substrate. Lighting can be used in the form of LED or fluoro lights, though lighting isn’t essential. If you are using fluoro tubes it is recommended to have a light cage over the entire fitting and bulb, as Morelia will climb and may smash the bulbs with their strength. If using lights, we recommend keeping them on for 12 hours a day during the warm months, and 10 hours daily during the cooler periods.

Adequate ventilation is required to promote air flow- vents at the high end on the warm side, and the low end on the cool side are preferred. A water bowl is obviously required, and should ideally be large enough for the python to fit in and submerge themselves if they wish. I recommend using a ceramic or similar type bowl that is easy to keep clean, and heavy enough to make it difficult for the python to tip over. Which substrate to use comes down to personal preference, hygiene and safety.

Sand should be avoided, because it may get stick between scales and around the eye, irritating the python. Personally, I use the coarse version of a product called Kritter’s crumble, which is a coconut fibre based product. I have tried “Chipsi” which is a fine natural particle, but found it stuck to the snakes food (making me worry about an obstruction if they ingest too much) and tracked everywhere, making more of a mess. The coconut fibre seems quite absorbent, the snakes love burrowing through it, and it is easy to clean, though the only downside is it is a little more expensive than some alternative substances.

Another requirement for Morelia of all life stages are adequate hides – these are structures that your reptile can hide away in, whether it is to feel safe, to warm up at the hot end of the enclosure, or to digest their meal in safety. For hatchlings I have one hide (I prefer the exo-terra hides as they give a better surface area and texture for them to climb on/around) at the warm end of the enclosure, but in larger enclosures it is best to provide one at the warm end, and one at the cool, for them to move between and thermoregulate ‘in safety.’

2. Enclosure size

For hatchling Morelia I prefer 10L tubs to house them, and due to numbers I keep them in a rack system, and upgrade them into a larger tub as they grow, before moving them to their adult enclosures.

For ventilation in a tub, I use a soldering iron to melt holes into the plastic - I Find it leaves a much smoother edge and unlike drilling, is not likely to crack the side of the tub. For adult Morelia, keep in mind that they are an arboreal species, and therefore prefer to spend time climbing, rather than spending all of their time on the ground.

It gets a little trickier to provide a blanket recommendation for adult Morelia as they vary in size from 1.2m to 8m in length! For smaller Morelia species, or those that are quite inactive like the Green Tree Python, you may be able to house them in a 90cm long x 60cm deep x 90cm high enclosure, particularly if you get them out to stretch periodically. Others would benefit with the same depth and height, but with the addition of more length- 150cm or even up to 240cm in length for the Scrub Python.

3. Heating

One of the most crucial things when housing pet snakes is to provide an adequate ‘hot spot’ or warm end of the enclosure for them to bask. This is essential for their immune system to function properly to remain healthy, as well as being critical for them to digest their food.

Being arboreal, the main way that Morelia warm up is by basking in the sunlight whilst perched in a tree, though sometimes they will come down to bask on the warm ground. Because of this, in captivity they often seem to prefer heat from above, so may prefer a basking light or ceramic heat emitter controlled by a thermostat.

I aim to maintain a basking area with a temperature of 32-34’C (perhaps a little lower for Diamond carpet pythons). It is important to use a separate digital thermometer at the basking site to ensure the thermostat is working correctly, and that the desired temperature is reached. For hatchlings in a rack system before they upgrade to a full enclosure, I use a heat cord connected to a thermostat to control the temperature, or for a single hatchling, you can use a heat cord. I generally heat 1/3 of the enclosure and the cool area sits at the ambient room temperature, so the snakes can thermoregulate themselves as needed

4. Feeding

The final thing we will touch on in this particular caresheet, is feeding. For tiny hatchlings, pinky mice may need to be used (0.5-3g in size) but some larger hatchlings may be started on fuzzy mice or pinky rats.

As the python grows, you should gradually increase the size of the prey. One method to determine prey size that is commonly recommended is to use a rodent roughly 1.5x the thickest part of the python, so it leaves a noticeable bulge when consumed. Another tip I was once given was if it takes the python 5 minutes or less to swallow, it is time to up the feeds!

When one prey size becomes too small, I’ll often do a few feeds (eg 5) with two of the prey items, one immediately after the other, before upgrading to the next rodent size. For adult Morelia, I try to avoid feeding fatty prey- for example, XL or Jumbo rats often seem to have the same muscle and bone amount as a standard large rat, but the extra weight is purely fat.

This extra fat certainly certainly isn’t a good thing, particularly when captive snakes are already more prone to obesity. Instead, I’d recommend sourcing rabbits, or intermittently use appropriately sized quail or chickens, which are quite lean. I generally feed hatchlings every 5-7 days, sub-adults weekly, and adults fortnightly.

How to Set Up a Reptile Heat Cord (AKA Tile Sandwich)

Tue, 28 Jun 2022 05:47:35 GMT

Have you ever wondered how to use a heat cord for your reptiles, or have you heard me refer to a tile sandwich? Here I’ll show you how to make one!

They’re super simple to use, and I’ve found them to be very safe and reliable.

It is important to note though that you will need to use a thermostat to control the heat cord and ‘sandwich’ to prevent it from overheating and hurting your snake, as with any other heat source.

I find tile sandwiches convenient to use beneath just one or two hatchy tubs (e.g. when I was a new keeper with just a few babies – racks with routed channels are easier for larger numbers), under glass enclosures, or inside timber enclosures. The example I’ll go through below is how I set up the tile sandwich within a timber enclosure, however if using it for glass, have the enclosure sitting on the top tile, with the thermostat probe still inside the enclosure to get an accurate temperature of the basking area.

Jungle Carpet Pythons - FAQs

Sun, 19 Jun 2022 08:07:37 GMT

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Jungle Carpet Pythons, a stunning species of python endemic to the far north forests of Queensland.

If you have any general questions that haven't been answered, or would like to hear about a particular topic, contact me and I'll do my best to answer any of your burning reptile questions.

Now, onto the Jungle Carpet Python FAQ - and a gallery of some recent shots taken of my male high yellow Tiger Jungle Carpet, Draco.

Photos taken of my high yellow Tiger Jungle Carpet Python Draco recently (click on each to view full image):

Which Type of Reptile Thermostat Should I Use?

Sun, 12 Jun 2022 08:47:31 GMT

When you’re looking into getting your first reptile, as you’re looking for a thermostat, you may be wondering - Which Type of Reptile Thermostat Should I Use?

Did you know there are different types, suitable for different situations? Or have you seen the different descriptions on the advertising and wondered which one to use? I'll explain in this article the three types of thermostat and the pros and cons of each.

What's in a Thermostat?

First of all, all thermostats have similar components on the outside:

a main body or display where you adjust the desired temperature,
a cord you connect your heat source to,
a cord that goes to the power supply, and
a cord with a probe on the end.

The thermostat probe should be placed directly where your snake will sit, so you can correctly control the basking area temperature.

What are the main types of reptile thermostats?

1 . Switching Thermostat

The most common, simplest and cheapest type of thermostat is a switching thermostat. These thermostats basically turn on and off - abruptly stopping the power to the heat source when the thermostat reads it has reached the desired temperature, and then turning back on when it starts to cool down.

These are fine for things like heat cords and heat mats, but can blow quite a few light bulbs so I don’t recommend using these with a switching thermostat.

Imagine a kid sitting there flicking a light switch on and off!

2. Pulse Proportional Thermostat

Pulse proportional thermostats still regulate the power supply to the heat source by allowing ‘pulses’ of power through, so you will often find you get a somewhat more stable temperature.

3. Dimming thermostats

Dimming thermostats are generally recommended for use with light bulbs, as they act like a dimmer switch for your house lights. It gradually increases or decreases the power supply to the heat source, rather than abruptly switching on or off, and is therefore less likely to blow bulbs.

Despite this, it is not recommended to use them with mercury vapour bulbs, though those have gone ‘out of fashion’ nowadays, so I won’t go into detail on those.

4. Dual thermostats

These are thermostats that have two ‘output’ power points, to control two heat sources at the same time.

My cheat way to do my own version of these is to simply plug multiple identical heat sources/enclosures into a power board, and the power board connects to the thermostat.

It is important to note with this, however, that most thermostats will have a maximum wattage that they can handle.

Which brand of thermostat to use?

There are numerous brands of thermostat available, including the two ‘big’ brands Microclimate and Habistat, then one from URS (ultimate reptile supplies), and Eco Tech being the main ‘reptile’ thermostats commonly seen online or in pet stores in Australia.

Another somewhat lesser known brand is Inkbird, which produces a switching thermostat, the model ITC-308 .

This is a thermostat that keepers have recommended via word of mouth, and I have recently started using with my heat cords. They’re cheaper to purchase than the other brands, and, touch wood, seem to be just as reliable.

A bonus of these is that they have a digital display, including the current temperature and desired temperature.

I have also used Habistat and Microclimate thermostats- the Habistat switching thermostats never had a glitch, whilst I found the Microclimate dimming thermostats would blow fuses or just stop working, so I will admit I lost some faith in them.

Having said this, many reptile keepers around the world still use and recommend them!

So which Thermostat is best for me?

In summary, thermostats are critical for safely heating reptiles.

In my opinion, a dimming thermostat is best for lights, while a cheaper switching thermostat can be used for heat cords and mats.

Feeding Snakes - Rats vs Mice?

Sun, 05 Jun 2022 11:12:54 GMT

A question people sometimes debate with feeding snakes, is whether to feed rats vs mice?

In this brief article I will discuss when to feed pythons rats or mice and the questions to ask to determine the right prey.

1. What is the snake used to?

The first thing that needs to be asked is what is the snake used to- is it a fussy feeder and only eats mice? Or will they eat both?

If so, I usually recommend going for mice when snakes are smaller, and rats when larger.

2. Why feed rats when the snake is larger?

My theory is that the nutrition is more likely to be balanced for the snake if fed prey old enough to have fur and to have been weaning/weaned. This way it has good quality, actual food in its stomach. This nutrition is also absorbed by the snakes when digesting their meal.

On the other hand, when they get to a larger prey size, I may feed them up until adult mice size, and then switch across to weaner rats, which are of equivalent size. I do this instead of using XL mice, because the large mice tend to be more fatty, which captive snakes fed routinely certainly don’t need!

3. What type of snake are you feeding?

If feeding large Black Headed Pythons and Woma pythons , I’d prefer to feed say two large rats, instead of XL or jumbos.

This is because in the wild, they are ‘reptile specialists,’ meaning they eat other reptiles, which are usually very lean.

So if repeatedly fed highly fatty prey, it may cause health issues down the track and contribute to obesity, particularly when they don’t have to move significant distances to find food.

In Summary

If you want to know whether to feed rats vs mice, you should first to take the feeding history, size and species of the snake into consideration. The above provides a starting point but you should always consult your breeder or veterinarian if you are unsure. For guidance on rats and mice sizing for please check out my earlier article on snake feeding advice.

Iris Eyes Off Mouse - My Wheatbelt Stimson Finally Eats!

Mon, 16 May 2022 11:12:52 GMT

Meet little Iris!

Iris is a little teenie tiny tricolour Wheatbelt Stimson python , who found her way to me from a breeder who had an unfortunate sudden change in accomodation plans.

Because of this, little Iris still wasn't feeding on her own properly.

Following the steps outlined in my earlier post about what to do when your snake isn't eating ; I realised that she seemed to show a little more interest in rats than mice.

The downside?

Even the smallest of rats is far too big for a teenie Stimson hatching!

So I decided to offer her the thigh and lower leg of a fuzzy rat, and to my surprise, she took it eagerly!

The next few feeds every few days I offered more than one piece, and then tonight, PARTY TIME! She immediately showed interest in a warm pinky mouse, grabbed it, coiled and ate it without hesitation.

I've been through this before with hatchies reluctant to eat, but it still always feels like its time to party when they finally take a decent meal, all on their own!!

Website Launched for Real Aussie Reptiles

Thu, 12 May 2022 13:46:36 GMT

Excited to announce that my website is now completed and launched this evening.

Our website will be the central location for everything happening at Real Aussie Reptiles HQ (though I will be keeping Facebook and Instagram busy too, of course!)

On the new site, you can view all my current pythons and planned pairings , so if you have your eye on a particular pairing and are interested in hatchlings, you can sign up to the waitlist .

I will be regularly updating the blog with new articles, information and resources , including know-how and tips from my years in reptile keeping; and of course from the unique perspective of a Vet.

To start with I have added two articles you can read now:

I hope you enjoy the content on the site, and if you have any requests or suggestions for topics for me to write about, please get in touch .

Thank you to Shelley Morris at Rogue Web Design for the hard work in developing the Real Aussie Reptiles branding, logo, website and various graphics. You can get in touch with her for design work at Flagship Studio or Rogue Create Print.

Why is my snake not eating? 9 Practical Tips

Wed, 11 May 2022 09:58:32 GMT

A problem often encountered by reptile keepers, especially first time breeders or those new to the hobby, is encouraging fussy hatchlings or new pets to eat.

A complicating factor is their size - they are so small it limits the types of prey that can be offered to try and trigger a feeding response. Despite this, there are a few things I’ve come across whilst keeping and breeding these guys that may help.

1. First of all, how long have you had your snake?

If you have just picked up your new pet, they are often reluctant to feed immediately as they are scared and unsure of their environment. The most common recommendation floating around is to wait a week before feeding, however in my experience, every snake is different!

Some snakes I’ve received I’ve fed the day they arrived (once they’ve had a chance to settle a little and reach their preferred temperature), based on their behaviour. Others are very defensive, and I’ll allow them to settle first.

But if they’re seemingly comfortable, there is no harm in offering food before the week is up- especially if they’re cruising around the enclosure looking for food, and I sometimes think it can actually help them settle sooner. But, don’t stress if your new scaley friend doesn’t want to eat for a fortnight or so.

In Summary: Don’t stress if you have just bought the snake – they can last weeks without food while they adapt to their environment

2. Next, ensure your husbandry is perfect

I know this might seem simple and obvious, but frequently the issue with new keepers lies in the way snakes are housed. I know myself as a new keeper, there is a strong desire to ‘spoil’ your new pet and house them with plenty of space in a large enclosure.

However, baby snakes are typically prey for larger animals, and therefore are generally quite timid and would prefer to hide away in a secure place.

Because of this, they often do better when starting in a small tub- for example, Antaresia species (spotted, childrens and stimsons pythons) in 5-7L tubs, or Morelia (carpet pythons) and Aspidites (womas and black headed pythons) in 10L tubs will suffice. If you have a larger enclosure, I would recommend adding additional hides so they feel comfortable enough to move where they need to, to thermoregulate adequately.

Next is security- Ensure there is a hide of some sort on the warm end (personally I like the exo-terra small hide, as it holds warmth and has a few different ‘layers’ they can climb over), a water bowl on the cool end, and I prefer to use paper towel as the substrate. I will elaborate on why in ‘setting up a hatchling tub’ later on.

The final point on husbandry is of critical importance- double check temperatures - I generally aim to keep temperatures at around 32-34 degrees celcius at the warm end of the tub or enclosure.

Personally I like using heat cords connected to a thermostat, underneath 1/3 of the tub, as they provide reliable consistent heat under the snakes belly. If temperatures are too low, or your snake is hiding at the cool end and not thermoregulating correctly, they won’t be able to digest their food and thus will not want to eat.

In Summary: Husbandry is critical – security, temperature are vital

3. Offer the correct prey size and type

The breeder or store you bought your pet from should be able to tell you what they were feeding on before you brought them home. Start with the same prey, as they are most likely to accept the same item.

In some cases, snakes that have been reliably feeding on mice, will be reluctant to switch to rats, or visa versa.

If you try one, and they’re not interested, you can try the equivalent size in the other type of prey.

See the table below for the types and weights of mice and rats that you can substitute- this table is adapted from Snake Snacks at Jimboomba Queensland , who I buy all of my feeders from.

If you are unsure what size to feed, generally offer a prey item about 1.5 times the thickest part of your snake. Table adapted from the prey sizes available from Snake Snacks at Jimboomba Queensland. Check out their facebook page if you’re local!

In Summary: Offering the correct prey is important for food acceptance

4. Warm Prey

It is important to warm the prey/food for your snake, as they are able to sense the temperature, and often won’t be as interested in it if it isn’t warm and smelling appetising!

Everyone has their own preference for thawing frozen mice and rats, and mine is to get a container of warm to hot water (I test it by dunking my hand- I have it as warm as I can tolerate, without burning!) and putting the mice or rats straight in.

Some prefer to put them within a Ziplock bag to keep them dry, but for animals taking feeds reliably, I usually offer the prey still damp (not dripping) to help with their water intake.

Once the food item is nice and warm, I towel dry it and offer it to the snake.

In Summary: Warm prey helps your snake recognise it as food

5. What makes your snake tick?

This is one thing I quickly learn with new snakes- what triggers their prey or feed drive? First of all I feed at night time, when the snakes are usually more active and would typically feed in the wild.

Using feeding tongs, I’ll hold the mouse or rat so that the head is facing the snake, and then offer it and watch the snakes behaviour.

If they shrink away and form a defensive posture or even lunge, I’ll just keep the prey item still and let them make the next move. If they start tongue flicking and make even the slightest movement forwards as if interested, I’ll use a different speed based on their behaviour, just calmly moving the prey item back and forth to spark their interest- kind of like how a little mouse would move as if scurrying back and forth foraging.

If they slowly inch forward but appear a little hesitant, I will actually move the prey item slowly away from them- this often draws them forward and will encourage them to take it.

Some snakes I’ve found will come forward and sort of do a ‘nose boop’ where they nudge their mouth against the nose of the mouse or rat, hesitate for a short while, then will slowly open their mouths and just start swallowing it, rather than actually strike or coil!

I’ve found Aspidites species (womas and black headed pythons) do this a lot! Some particularly anxious snakes will become defensive when you’re there, so if they just try to get away and hide, or defensively strike, I’ll leave the prey item in the tub overnight and they will often take it when it is dark and no-one is around.

After all, they’re quite vulnerable when feeding and digesting their meal.

In Summary: Different snakes have different feeding style, watch your pythons behaviour at feeding time to respond accordingly

6. Scenting

This is the next step, if you’ve done all of the above.

As mentioned prior, some snakes can be finicky with the type of food offered, and some can be difficult to transition from one food type to another.

A tip that can be useful to encourage them to feed is to ‘scent’ the prey item with something else they might be interested in – for example, covering the head of a rat with mouse fur, or a mouse with small quail feathers/fluff. I’ve actually even had one stimson hatchling take a pinky mouse when it accidently got covered with cat fur!!!

In Summary: Scenting your pets food can help trick it into accepting it

7. Offering a ‘piece’ of a larger prey item

In the past for small Antaresia hatchlings, I’ve sometimes had success getting them to feed by offering the tail of a larger mouse, or even a small rat, to get them to feed.

It is important to note this isn’t a balanced diet, but can often be used initially until they develop a stronger feeding reaction.

Little Iris, my female Wheatbelt Stimson Python actually took to frozen thawed fuzzy rat hind legs, of all things!

In Summary: Offering a small piece of the prey can help get them started

8. Try poultry

Sometimes really fussy hatchlings won’t take to rodents, and prefer day old quail – these are often available from pet stores, or from private breeders as frozen-thawed.

In Summary: Some species don’t naturally eat mammals, so sometimes trying different prey may help

9. Contact your breeder

If you are still having difficulty and it has been a few weeks, let your breeder know what is happening.

If they’re local, and your snake has lost body condition, the absolute last resort, is to assist feed. This should not be taken on lightly, as you can seriously harm small species of snakes, and it can cause food aversion, making it more difficult to get them feeding on their own later, as they view the prey as a traumatic experience. But when it comes to life or death, it may be the only option.

But I repeat, it is an utter last resort!

In Summary: Force feeding should ALWAYS be considered a LAST RESORT!

Issues with the Python Industry: A Summary

Tue, 10 May 2022 09:17:40 GMT

After returning to reptile keeping after a 3-4 year hiatus, I have found many issues with the python industry.

The Morelia portion of the reptile hobby has been disfigured. Jaguars and Zebras, which originated outside of Australia, have somehow made it back and have been bred into what seems like virtually everything. It is very hard to find trustworthy pure snakes, let alone locality pure ones that I treasured. In this article, I will expand on my issues with the python industry currently.

1. Interspecies breeding

Yes, people cross breed dogs and cats, so crossing pythons is ok, yeah?

In my opinion, no, not to the point people have taken it.

Domesticated dogs for example are Canis lupus familiaris. The genus name being Canis- that is essentially their 'family.' Lupus familiaris is the actual species level.

Now, with 'carpet pythons' their genus is Morelia , and the different types of carpets are actually different species within the Pythonidae family: M. spilota cheynei, the jungle carpet; M. spilota mcdowelli, the common coastal carpet python (the one most people just call carpet pythons); M. bredli, the Bredli carpet. The list goes on.

Now, people have created inter-species hybrids to get certain genes and are breeding purely for cosmetics, and in the case of Jaguar carpet morphs, to the detriment to the animals- I’ll elaborate more on this in the next point.

With hybrids in the ‘snake world,’ they aren't 'cross breeds' like dogs - they aren't the same breed- they are different species!

They have zero conservation value and in most of the crosses would never naturally meet in the wild.

But because humans interfere with natural selection, this inter species crossing, creating hybrid animals (not simply a morph as they call them) again to me is unethical.

2. Misleading Advertising

My next concern is that this interspecies breeding has a high chance of misleading new and old keepers alike into believing they have one animal, when it is a hybrid.

E.g. animals advertised as albino Bredli or Murray Darlings- no albino gene has been identified in pure Bredli or Murray Darlings- they have been cross bred with Albino Darwin carpet pythons and line bred to produce these 'albino Bredli/Murray Darlings."

If not advertised correctly, or via a Chinese whispers like pathway, these animals may be bred, and their offspring sold as 'pure Bredli' etc. Then bred back to legit pure animals. Creating havoc and uncertainty within this muddled mess of Morelia!!

And if these snakes escape or are released, and interbreed with wild native localities... it is just as bad as having imported species such as corn snakes released into the wild in Australia.

...if these snakes escape or are released... it is just as bad as having imported species such as corn snakes released into the wild in Australia.

3. Breeding for appearances over health

One big example of this can be seen in Jaguar carpets- every single one, has a defect that causes neurological signs.

Some may be so mild you don't notice.

But some, are so bad they can’t stay right way up, they roll around, can't feed and are euthanised or starve to death.

This goes against everything I believe in as an animal lover, and veterinarian. We should not be promoting the reproduction of genetically unfit animals to the detriment of their wellbeing, purely for the sake of our own cosmetic preferences.

I admit. I adore the look of a stunning reduced pattern jungle jaguar carpet python- which is a cross between a jungle and a coastal, by the way- an interspecies hybrid- but I would never own them because in my opinion it is unethical.

Other examples of breeding to the detriment of the animals health are certain albino lines that are blind, and others where there are very high mortality rates in the offspring, so few make it to adulthood.

4. Illegal Practices

Cross-breeding native species is actually illegal! As I've stated above, cross breeding has zero conservation value, and poses significant risks if the animals were to escape and interbreed with wild native localities.

Various State Acts, Regulations and Codes of Practice that govern the licenced native reptile breeder are clear about hybridisation not being a lawful activity.

Under section 92(1) of the Nature Conservation Act 1992 , it is an offence for a person to knowingly breed a hybrid or mutation of a protected animal other than under a regulation or an exemption under a regulation.

The Code of Practice: Captive Reptile and Amphibian Husbandry states one of the aims of herpetology is "maintenance of the genetic integrity through sound captive breeding management"

Real Aussie Reptiles Blog

2025 Reptile Expos - Sunshine Coast and Brisbane

We'll be back for two outstanding reptile events in 2025 - this year at the Sunny Coast on the 12-13 April 2025 and Brisbane 26-27 April 2025.

2024 Brisbane Reptile Expo

After a successful 2023 event, Brisbane Reptile Society and Shikito's Critters are back in 2024 at a bigger and better venue. An event not to be missed for QLD reptile lovers!

Event details:

Finger Grip Spring Sale - 20% off Site-wide

I love spring and summer for the reptiles, but otherwise, I'm not a fan of the heat!

So its time to shed some weight!

Brisbane Reptile Expo This Weekend

Real Aussie Reptiles are delighted to be part of the first Brisbane Reptile Expo since the pandemic this coming 1st and 2nd April 2023.

Children's Pythons - FAQs

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Children's Pythons, ( Antaresia childreni) , a stunning nocturnal python from the northern half of Australia.

Photos taken recently of my f emale patternless T+ albino Children's Python (click on each to view full image):

Best Substrate for Pythons - What Substrate Should You Use?

Which substrate to use is often a personal opinion thing.

Something I will often say is, ask 10 different people and get 10 different answers! But here, I will explain a few important considerations to help you decide the best substrate for your pythons.

1. Best substrate for hatchlings

2. Best substrate for adult snakes

2. Best brands of substrate

3. Critter's Comfort Vs Chipsi - pros and cons

S UMMARY

How do I know if my snake is happy? Your questions answered

In today's post, I answer some of the more common questions I get asked about snakes in general, including, how to know if your snake is happy.

Enjoyed this post and want to get updates for new posts?

2023 Reptile Wall Calendars Now Available

Looking for a Christmas stocking filler for the reptile enthusiast in your life? Then our 2023 reptile wall calendar is the perfect present! ﻿

Support your local reptile store - stockists now available

We're delighted to announce three fantastic local stores are now stocking our finger grips for sale.

Download catalogue

Buy Local

Opinion Piece: The unethical trend of reptile rack systems

What is most important to people?

Ethics, and the humane treatment of animals?

In these adult tub systems, the snakes:

Why use tub systems for hatchlings?

Having these ethics means a few things:

But what CAN I offer?

Video - How I handle a snake that is defensive or bitey

Today is a quick video on how I can sometimes handle defensive or potentially bitey snakes, featuring my flightiest Rough Scale Python, Thorne.

New Lizard and Snake Designs Available

Now available in our shop: six Lizard and Snake Finger Grip designs.

New Finger Grip Designs Available

Now available in our shop: three new Lizard Finger Grip designs.

What enclosure should I get for my snake?

What enclosure to get your snake is a question often asked by new python keepers - and, in short - there isn’t one single answer to it. In Australia, we are able to keep a variety of types of python which occur naturally in the wild, in a wide assortment of habitat types.

>Enclosure size for adult snakes

>Enclosure material

>Enclosure recommendations for Antaresia

>Enclosure recommendations for Aspidites

>Enclosure recommendations for Morelia

Keep your snake enclosure clean and easy to open with our range of Aussie made Finger Grips!

How do I stop my snake from biting

One of the most common questions that seem to pop up on a lot of online forums that I follow, and to be honest, I rarely agree with the majority of the answers, is this: How to stop my snake biting.

1. Determine the response type

2. Feeding response - how to manage behaviour

3. Fear Response - how to manage behaviour

EXAMPLE:

Female Rough Scale Python, Thorn.

Sliding Glass Finger Grips Now Available

We're excited to launch our first reptile enclosure finger grips featuring a range of native Australian reptile designs.

Black Headed Pythons - FAQs

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Black Headed Pythons, a striking - and large - species of python found in the northern half of Australia.

Photos taken recently of my male Black Headed Python, Onyx (click on each to view full image):

Aspidites Species Care Sheet

Basic care and husbandry recommendations for keeping Aspidites species, with a free PDF download of the Aspidites Species Care Sheet.

1. Housing

2. Enclosure size

3. Heating

4. Feeding

Morelia Species Care Sheet

Basic care and husbandry recommendations for keeping Morelia species, with a free PDF download of the Morelia Species Care Sheet.

1. Housing

2. Enclosure size

3. Heating

4. Feeding

How to Set Up a Reptile Heat Cord (AKA Tile Sandwich)

Have you ever wondered how to use a heat cord for your reptiles, or have you heard me refer to a tile sandwich? Here I’ll show you how to make one!

Jungle Carpet Pythons - FAQs

In today's post, I answer FAQs about Jungle Carpet Pythons, a stunning species of python endemic to the far north forests of Queensland.

Looking for a Christmas stocking filler for the reptile enthusiast in your life? Then our 2023 reptile wall calendar is the perfect present!